Toriyoshi

As the cold sets in, the steam rising from tables at Toriyoshi draws steady crowds through its doorway, almost all of them here for the celebrated anko nabe (monkfish hot pot). Thick cuts of monkfish liver and firm fish simmer together in a rich house-made miso broth, deepening in flavour as the meal progresses until the remaining soup is cooked into a luscious finishing zosui rice porridge. Even a single serving delivers remarkable depth. Come early summer through early autumn, the pot switches to hamo shabu using pike conger from Amakusa and Awaji, briefly swept through dashi until the tender white flesh opens like a blossom with subtle natural sweetness.

Seasonal Sashimi and Thoughtful Small Bites Before the Pot

While waiting for the hot pot to simmer, the kitchen turns out an appealing lineup of seasonal starters. The omakase sashimi platter gathers the day’s best seafood in generous cuts, while house-made satsuma-age fish cakes, studded with carrot, burdock, squid, and mountain yam, arrive piping hot and pillowy. Generous crab salads, skewered grilled eel kurikara, affordable yakitori, and dashi-rich nira tama (chive and egg skillet) round out an unpretentious spread that pairs naturally with a steady pour of sake.

Regional Sake and Low-Key Shitamachi Warmth

The sake selection is well matched to the food, featuring bottles such as Suiryu, Izumibashi, Gunma Izumi, and Tengumai that have the structure to stand up to rich broths and fatty seafood. On chilly nights, a cup of fragrant hirezake (sake steeped with grilled blowfish fin) offers welcome comfort, while bottled beer, highballs, and house-made umeshu provide easy alternatives.

With tatami seating and counter stools, the shop maintains the nostalgic, unhurried air of the Showa era. Evening service runs from 17:00 to 22:00, Tuesday through Sunday, with Mondays off. Given the enduring popularity of the hot pots, booking ahead is advisable, and diners should note that payments are cash only.